Mmmmm.... caves....
Sep. 28th, 2009 05:20 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
sonoranrnSo... caving! Because I tend to write like I talk (ie. babble on and on), I'll put this behind the cut.
I got up early to be on the road about 0600 and pointed the headlights south(ish). I made good time, blowing through alien territory (Roswell) and getting down to the Caverns about 1130. For some reason, it was fee-free day, which was a pleasant surprise. (Though, really, all that meant was I put what I would have paid into the donation box instead.) When I first heard that I was worried about how crowded it would be, but it actually wasn't bad at all. I had a good hour and fifteen minutes before I had to meet the tour guide, which was nice. It didn't give me enough time to walk down the natural entrance, so I took the elevator down and did a quick lap of most of the Big Room. I'm glad I've done that part of the Caverns fairly recently as I didn't have as much time as I would have wanted had it been all new to me. I saw my favourite feature (the chandelier) and then returned to the underground cafe to wait.
As I found out a little later, this particular tour is only offered on Saturdays at 1300 and they take 8 people, max. (In retrospect, I'm pretty amazed I was able to get a ticket so close to the tour date.) I did some quick math and realized I'm only one of, at most, about 400 people a year who get to do this every year. Sweet.
Our tour was made up of me, a group of five (well, there were six but one backed out at the last minute) and JJ, an ex-Nashville police officer, probably in his late 20s or so. Oh, and three rangers, well, two and one in-training. At one point it looked like it was just going to be JJ and I with the rangers which would have been very cool, but the big group showed up just a few minutes before 1400.
ANYWAY! We gear up (gloves, knee pads, helmets with headlamps), get the quick lecture on safety and rules and whatnot, and head out. The natural entrance into the Caverns (for those who don't know) is described by the National Park Service website as follows: "This 1¼-mile tour follows the traditional explorer’s route, entering the cavern through the large historic natural entrance. The Natural Entrance route descends more than 750 feet into the earth following steep and narrow trails through a tall and spacious trunk passage called the Main Corridor. The route culminates in the underground rest area, near the elevators and Big Room route starting point. Visitors in good health who plan to take both self-guided tours may enjoy starting with the Natural Entrance Route. Highlights along this route include Bat Cave, Devil’s Spring, Green Lake Overlook and the Boneyard, a complex maze of highly-dissolved limestone rock reminiscent of Swiss cheese. Visitors should watch for Iceberg Rock, a single 200,000-ton boulder that fell from the cave ceiling thousands of years ago. Our trailhead (for lack of a better word) was partway down the natural entrance trail so we had to hustle. I'm sure we were quite a sight -- seven people and three rangers geared up like we were and all but running down the path (which Evil Knee did not appreciate at all) -- and people stopped and stared a lot.
Finally we got to the trailhead which is right on the entrance trail. We basically stepped off to the side a little bit and scrambled up and into the rocks. People literally walk right by as you climb up and in, which is the cause for many a question, I'm sure. There's no gate to stop just anyone from entering that cave, so they rely on those who take the tour not to tell anyone the exact location. When exiting, they put down a mat for us to wipe our boots on so there were no muddy tracks to give away the entrance, then stash the mat again in a hiding place. (So when I get the photos, there's at least one I won't be able to post. Sorry.)
The first bit is a tight, crawling corkscrew and I expect it weeds out anyone not really suited for this kind of caving. I admit that going into the whole thing I was just a bit apprehensive; I've never been claustrophobic, really, but I'd also never done anything like this before. I was a little worried I'd freak out in the middle of some squeeze or pinch or something, make a fool of myself, and have to be carried babbling out of the cave. Thankfully, I did fine. The corkscrew twists you around and then you kind of go up-and-over into a room big enough for all of us to gather. (Though not, by any means, a big room. Think of it more like a large bathroom, if that. One full of rocks.) JJ was right behind the leading rangers and I was behind him so when I pulled myself into the room the first thing I saw was him grinning. I'm sure I had the same look on my face. It was awesome -- just that first little stretch and I knew I was going to be hopelessly hooked by the time the tour was over.
The rangers touched base with all of us, making sure everyone was okay and ready to continue. Most people had brought layers of clothing and many decided to leave their sweaters behind at that spot. I had on a long-sleeved shirt and initially I wished I had a t-shirt on under, but it turned out to be just as well I didn't. The shirt I had was perfect -- I could push the sleeves up when I was warm but pull them down to offer a little protection while crawling; which we immediately. The rangers verbally walked us through the next bit which was five challenges right in a row: a horizontal chimney, the ladder, Matlock's pinch, a diagonal squeeze, and the rope. (This may not be the right order, but all five were definitely present.) There would be no face-to-face gathering until everyone had completed all five.
The chimney is a short stretch where it's kind-of like the floor drops out from under you a little. To transverse it, you walk along rock shelves, one foot on either side. Not too bad, so long as you move slowly, keep three points of contact at all time, and feel carefully for solid handholds. The ladder was easy for me, but it is very, very narrow -- 8" at most, I'd guess -- just enough room for one foot. The rocks get close up at the top and some broader-shouldered people might have to turn a little bit to get to the top, but I was fine. Matlock's Pinch might have given me pause had I let it, though. It is two horizontal planes of rock maybe two feet apart, if that. It's all belly, nowhere near enough room for hand and knees crawling. Thankfully it isn't that long, only three feet or so, but it is tight and intimidating. I refused to give it a chance to freak me out, though, just watched JJ's feet and followed right behind him. I tell you, coming out of that, I felt like I could do anything. It made the next two challenges (a knotted rope-assisted climb up slippery flowstone and a short diagonal squeeze that you have to maneuver at an angle on one outstretched arm and one knee) seem like a leisurely stroll.
We still had a ways to go to reach the White Giant, but, for me, the "worst" (so to speak) was over. There were some moderately difficult technical parts, sometimes combined with more of that super-slick flowstone, but as long as you take your time and make sure you're solidly anchored before shifting your weight, it's not too bad. Thankfully I'm pretty good with heights so the passages where we crept along on shelves alongside deep drop-offs didn't bother me at all.
A whole bunch of dust, sweat, bonking of helmets on overhanging rock, and avoiding squishing cave beetles and crickets later, the rangers stopped us. The lead kept her headlamp on and had us turn ours off. Under her direction we crept forward to the edge of a drop off where JJ and I knelt down and the other five clustered behind us. On the ranger's count, we all turned on our headlamps to illuminate the White Giant: a beautiful, active, large stalagmite (almost a column, really) looming at the top of a long slope. Alongside one slope is a crazy slick patch of flowstone leading up to the Giant; a knotted rope had been anchored at the top so we were able to make our way up to check it out. (That was a little tough for me as I don't have as much upper body strength as I used to.) There isn't much room so only two of us were allowed up at a time. JJ went first with me not far behind. Up close the Giant is even more impressive, as is the degree of slant on the slope. After some oohing and aahing, it was time for us to go back to the group and let two others come check it out. Down the flow-stone/rope was much easier and fun -- kind of a controlled fall/slide.
After everyone had visited the Giant and come back down, we sat in together in a loose circle near the drop-off. (JJ pointed out what an awesome place it would be to camp and I have to agree.) As I had expected, it was time for the blackout. We all turned off our lamps and sat in the utter pitch-black darkness. If you've never been in a cave, there's just nothing like that kind of dark. Your eyes try and try to adjust but there's absolutely not a speck of light to adjust to. A few nervous jokes were made by the group of five about spiders and the Chupacabra (more here if you're unfamiliar) before the rangers, thankfully, got them to hush so we could all sit quietly and listen to the cave. (It's an amazing experience -- highly recommended if you ever get a chance.)
Unfortunately, we were under a time constraint so we couldn't lounge for long. (I couldn't help but think if it had just been JJ, me, and the rangers, we'd have been able to hang out there longer. Can't fault the bigger group, though, as some of them were younger girls who had no rock climbing or caving experience so they moved slower.) The way back was easier for the most part. Coming back down the rope was tough because the flowstone is just so slippery; I had a hard time finding purchase and spent more time than I would have liked hanging onto the rope for dear life. (The fall wouldn't have been too far, but it would have been very pinball-like as I bounced off rocks on the way down. Not so bueno.) Approaching Matlock's Pinch from the other side, it looks MUCH narrower width-wise (height looks the same) and it stopped me short for a minute. But I reminded myself that I'd already done it once and squeezed back through. (Go me!)
When we all tumbled back out through the corkscrew onto the natural entrance path, the Caverns were already closed. I think they allow the last people down that path around 1500 and the visitor center closes at 1700. It wasn't much before then when we came out, dirty and sweaty but beaming with accomplishment, and all the lights had been turned out in the main Cavern. We tromped down the rest of the path to the elevators in darkness which was really cool. The Cavern is SO big at that point that it really feels like being outside. Again, the lead rangers, JJ and I were moving at a faster clip so I was able to look back and see the larger group and the rear ranger's headlamps coming down the switchbacks above us. It looked so much like watching people hike down a hill outside on a cloud-covered, starless sky. Looking around the formations along the path by headlamp made them look totally different, too. It was really cool. I'd have loved to have been able to do the whole Big Room tour that way. Alas, before I knew it we had stripped off our equipment and taken the elevator back up to the surface. It was weird walking out into daylight after having been underground so long -- little disconcerting.
So, to make a long, long story short -- it was freakin' AWESOME. I'm 100% hooked and cannot wait to plan another trip. There is another wild tour down in Carlsbad I want to try: Spider Cave which is described as "a three-dimensional maze cave—a caver’s paradise. Even veteran cavers will enjoy the adventure of Spider. Participants will hike a half mile down beautiful Garden Grove Canyon to get to the cave, where excessive crawling and climbing will ensue. Highlights of this tour include the Mace Room, Medusa Room, and Cactus Spring, as well as a stunning variety of cave formations and dirty cave crawls. This trip is not recommended for anyone with a fear of enclosed spaces, heights, or getting a little cave dirt in your ears." Our rangers from this weekend said our trip was more challenging and strenuous, but if we enjoyed it then we'd like Spider Cave too. (Can you guess what my next trip south will include?)
I had brought a disposable camera with me in a shoulder bag but once we got through the corkscrew I realized I didn't want to deal with the bag so I left it there. I thought about cramming it in a pocket but my jeans were too tight to allow that without me worrying about it popping out somewhere along the way. Luckily JJ brought one (and was wearing baggier jeans) which he used up completely. He took some of me and I gave him my email so he can send them to me when he gets them developed. I'll be sure and post them (along with the few I snapped in the Big Room and the corkscrew) when I get them.
So that was my trip! Who's coming with me to Spider??
I got up early to be on the road about 0600 and pointed the headlights south(ish). I made good time, blowing through alien territory (Roswell) and getting down to the Caverns about 1130. For some reason, it was fee-free day, which was a pleasant surprise. (Though, really, all that meant was I put what I would have paid into the donation box instead.) When I first heard that I was worried about how crowded it would be, but it actually wasn't bad at all. I had a good hour and fifteen minutes before I had to meet the tour guide, which was nice. It didn't give me enough time to walk down the natural entrance, so I took the elevator down and did a quick lap of most of the Big Room. I'm glad I've done that part of the Caverns fairly recently as I didn't have as much time as I would have wanted had it been all new to me. I saw my favourite feature (the chandelier) and then returned to the underground cafe to wait.
As I found out a little later, this particular tour is only offered on Saturdays at 1300 and they take 8 people, max. (In retrospect, I'm pretty amazed I was able to get a ticket so close to the tour date.) I did some quick math and realized I'm only one of, at most, about 400 people a year who get to do this every year. Sweet.
Our tour was made up of me, a group of five (well, there were six but one backed out at the last minute) and JJ, an ex-Nashville police officer, probably in his late 20s or so. Oh, and three rangers, well, two and one in-training. At one point it looked like it was just going to be JJ and I with the rangers which would have been very cool, but the big group showed up just a few minutes before 1400.
ANYWAY! We gear up (gloves, knee pads, helmets with headlamps), get the quick lecture on safety and rules and whatnot, and head out. The natural entrance into the Caverns (for those who don't know) is described by the National Park Service website as follows: "This 1¼-mile tour follows the traditional explorer’s route, entering the cavern through the large historic natural entrance. The Natural Entrance route descends more than 750 feet into the earth following steep and narrow trails through a tall and spacious trunk passage called the Main Corridor. The route culminates in the underground rest area, near the elevators and Big Room route starting point. Visitors in good health who plan to take both self-guided tours may enjoy starting with the Natural Entrance Route. Highlights along this route include Bat Cave, Devil’s Spring, Green Lake Overlook and the Boneyard, a complex maze of highly-dissolved limestone rock reminiscent of Swiss cheese. Visitors should watch for Iceberg Rock, a single 200,000-ton boulder that fell from the cave ceiling thousands of years ago. Our trailhead (for lack of a better word) was partway down the natural entrance trail so we had to hustle. I'm sure we were quite a sight -- seven people and three rangers geared up like we were and all but running down the path (which Evil Knee did not appreciate at all) -- and people stopped and stared a lot.
Finally we got to the trailhead which is right on the entrance trail. We basically stepped off to the side a little bit and scrambled up and into the rocks. People literally walk right by as you climb up and in, which is the cause for many a question, I'm sure. There's no gate to stop just anyone from entering that cave, so they rely on those who take the tour not to tell anyone the exact location. When exiting, they put down a mat for us to wipe our boots on so there were no muddy tracks to give away the entrance, then stash the mat again in a hiding place. (So when I get the photos, there's at least one I won't be able to post. Sorry.)
The first bit is a tight, crawling corkscrew and I expect it weeds out anyone not really suited for this kind of caving. I admit that going into the whole thing I was just a bit apprehensive; I've never been claustrophobic, really, but I'd also never done anything like this before. I was a little worried I'd freak out in the middle of some squeeze or pinch or something, make a fool of myself, and have to be carried babbling out of the cave. Thankfully, I did fine. The corkscrew twists you around and then you kind of go up-and-over into a room big enough for all of us to gather. (Though not, by any means, a big room. Think of it more like a large bathroom, if that. One full of rocks.) JJ was right behind the leading rangers and I was behind him so when I pulled myself into the room the first thing I saw was him grinning. I'm sure I had the same look on my face. It was awesome -- just that first little stretch and I knew I was going to be hopelessly hooked by the time the tour was over.
The rangers touched base with all of us, making sure everyone was okay and ready to continue. Most people had brought layers of clothing and many decided to leave their sweaters behind at that spot. I had on a long-sleeved shirt and initially I wished I had a t-shirt on under, but it turned out to be just as well I didn't. The shirt I had was perfect -- I could push the sleeves up when I was warm but pull them down to offer a little protection while crawling; which we immediately. The rangers verbally walked us through the next bit which was five challenges right in a row: a horizontal chimney, the ladder, Matlock's pinch, a diagonal squeeze, and the rope. (This may not be the right order, but all five were definitely present.) There would be no face-to-face gathering until everyone had completed all five.
The chimney is a short stretch where it's kind-of like the floor drops out from under you a little. To transverse it, you walk along rock shelves, one foot on either side. Not too bad, so long as you move slowly, keep three points of contact at all time, and feel carefully for solid handholds. The ladder was easy for me, but it is very, very narrow -- 8" at most, I'd guess -- just enough room for one foot. The rocks get close up at the top and some broader-shouldered people might have to turn a little bit to get to the top, but I was fine. Matlock's Pinch might have given me pause had I let it, though. It is two horizontal planes of rock maybe two feet apart, if that. It's all belly, nowhere near enough room for hand and knees crawling. Thankfully it isn't that long, only three feet or so, but it is tight and intimidating. I refused to give it a chance to freak me out, though, just watched JJ's feet and followed right behind him. I tell you, coming out of that, I felt like I could do anything. It made the next two challenges (a knotted rope-assisted climb up slippery flowstone and a short diagonal squeeze that you have to maneuver at an angle on one outstretched arm and one knee) seem like a leisurely stroll.
We still had a ways to go to reach the White Giant, but, for me, the "worst" (so to speak) was over. There were some moderately difficult technical parts, sometimes combined with more of that super-slick flowstone, but as long as you take your time and make sure you're solidly anchored before shifting your weight, it's not too bad. Thankfully I'm pretty good with heights so the passages where we crept along on shelves alongside deep drop-offs didn't bother me at all.
A whole bunch of dust, sweat, bonking of helmets on overhanging rock, and avoiding squishing cave beetles and crickets later, the rangers stopped us. The lead kept her headlamp on and had us turn ours off. Under her direction we crept forward to the edge of a drop off where JJ and I knelt down and the other five clustered behind us. On the ranger's count, we all turned on our headlamps to illuminate the White Giant: a beautiful, active, large stalagmite (almost a column, really) looming at the top of a long slope. Alongside one slope is a crazy slick patch of flowstone leading up to the Giant; a knotted rope had been anchored at the top so we were able to make our way up to check it out. (That was a little tough for me as I don't have as much upper body strength as I used to.) There isn't much room so only two of us were allowed up at a time. JJ went first with me not far behind. Up close the Giant is even more impressive, as is the degree of slant on the slope. After some oohing and aahing, it was time for us to go back to the group and let two others come check it out. Down the flow-stone/rope was much easier and fun -- kind of a controlled fall/slide.
After everyone had visited the Giant and come back down, we sat in together in a loose circle near the drop-off. (JJ pointed out what an awesome place it would be to camp and I have to agree.) As I had expected, it was time for the blackout. We all turned off our lamps and sat in the utter pitch-black darkness. If you've never been in a cave, there's just nothing like that kind of dark. Your eyes try and try to adjust but there's absolutely not a speck of light to adjust to. A few nervous jokes were made by the group of five about spiders and the Chupacabra (more here if you're unfamiliar) before the rangers, thankfully, got them to hush so we could all sit quietly and listen to the cave. (It's an amazing experience -- highly recommended if you ever get a chance.)
Unfortunately, we were under a time constraint so we couldn't lounge for long. (I couldn't help but think if it had just been JJ, me, and the rangers, we'd have been able to hang out there longer. Can't fault the bigger group, though, as some of them were younger girls who had no rock climbing or caving experience so they moved slower.) The way back was easier for the most part. Coming back down the rope was tough because the flowstone is just so slippery; I had a hard time finding purchase and spent more time than I would have liked hanging onto the rope for dear life. (The fall wouldn't have been too far, but it would have been very pinball-like as I bounced off rocks on the way down. Not so bueno.) Approaching Matlock's Pinch from the other side, it looks MUCH narrower width-wise (height looks the same) and it stopped me short for a minute. But I reminded myself that I'd already done it once and squeezed back through. (Go me!)
When we all tumbled back out through the corkscrew onto the natural entrance path, the Caverns were already closed. I think they allow the last people down that path around 1500 and the visitor center closes at 1700. It wasn't much before then when we came out, dirty and sweaty but beaming with accomplishment, and all the lights had been turned out in the main Cavern. We tromped down the rest of the path to the elevators in darkness which was really cool. The Cavern is SO big at that point that it really feels like being outside. Again, the lead rangers, JJ and I were moving at a faster clip so I was able to look back and see the larger group and the rear ranger's headlamps coming down the switchbacks above us. It looked so much like watching people hike down a hill outside on a cloud-covered, starless sky. Looking around the formations along the path by headlamp made them look totally different, too. It was really cool. I'd have loved to have been able to do the whole Big Room tour that way. Alas, before I knew it we had stripped off our equipment and taken the elevator back up to the surface. It was weird walking out into daylight after having been underground so long -- little disconcerting.
So, to make a long, long story short -- it was freakin' AWESOME. I'm 100% hooked and cannot wait to plan another trip. There is another wild tour down in Carlsbad I want to try: Spider Cave which is described as "a three-dimensional maze cave—a caver’s paradise. Even veteran cavers will enjoy the adventure of Spider. Participants will hike a half mile down beautiful Garden Grove Canyon to get to the cave, where excessive crawling and climbing will ensue. Highlights of this tour include the Mace Room, Medusa Room, and Cactus Spring, as well as a stunning variety of cave formations and dirty cave crawls. This trip is not recommended for anyone with a fear of enclosed spaces, heights, or getting a little cave dirt in your ears." Our rangers from this weekend said our trip was more challenging and strenuous, but if we enjoyed it then we'd like Spider Cave too. (Can you guess what my next trip south will include?)
I had brought a disposable camera with me in a shoulder bag but once we got through the corkscrew I realized I didn't want to deal with the bag so I left it there. I thought about cramming it in a pocket but my jeans were too tight to allow that without me worrying about it popping out somewhere along the way. Luckily JJ brought one (and was wearing baggier jeans) which he used up completely. He took some of me and I gave him my email so he can send them to me when he gets them developed. I'll be sure and post them (along with the few I snapped in the Big Room and the corkscrew) when I get them.
So that was my trip! Who's coming with me to Spider??
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no subject
Date: 2009-09-29 01:48 pm (UTC)I will just live vicariously through you. We have some pretty cool wild cave tours in Texas too. Want to rappel down into a cave? http://www.cavernsofsonora.com/index.php?link=specialtytours
I think that Sonora is one of only 2 caves I haven't explored in Texas--at least opened to visitors.
no subject
Date: 2009-09-30 12:51 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-09-29 02:24 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-09-29 03:05 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-09-30 04:01 am (UTC)Wow!
Date: 2009-09-30 04:36 am (UTC)